Prepare the paint
Wash, decontaminate and correct defects if needed. Remove polishing oils and let the surface dry.

Water beads on the coated surface, helping dirt rinse away during routine washing.
Water-beading illustration
PRO 10H adds gloss to a well-prepared finish. Correct existing paint defects before coating if needed.
Gloss illustration
Wash and prepare the surface first. Prep products are sold separately.

Cool paint, good lighting and one small section at a time.
Wash, decontaminate and correct defects if needed. Remove polishing oils and let the surface dry.
Use the applicator to spread the coating evenly over a small section.
Follow the supplied flash time. Wipe away excess with the towel and check from different angles.
Keep dry for 24 hours. Allow 5–7 days for a full cure and follow the instruction sheet in your kit.
Adding a second layer? Allow 2–4 hours between coats. Coating does not remove scratches or replace paint correction.

Each kit contains a 50 mL bottle and application accessories. Choose additional kits for multiple vehicles or projects. The amount required depends on the surfaces, vehicle size and number of layers.
Yes, with thorough preparation, good lighting and time to work in small sections. Read the supplied instructions first and plan a dry curing period.
No. Inspect and correct paint defects before coating if needed. Ceramic coating does not make paint scratch-proof or prevent impact damage.
The surface must be clean and free of polishing oils or residue. Prep Spray is an optional add-on and does not replace washing or decontamination.
Follow the application instructions and test an inconspicuous area first. For an unfamiliar finish or material, ask our product support team before application.
The “Self Healing” property is cool. I had some very fine swirl marks on my door pillar. After applying this coating, they seemed to fill in and disappear. It leaves a very thick, glass-like shell over the paint.
Fast shipping. The packaging feels very premium, like a high-end tech product.
Used this on my boat! The fiberglass gel coat was starting to oxidize a bit. I polished it and sealed it with this coating. It’s been in the water for a month and there’s no scum line sticking to the hull. Very impressed that it holds up in marine environments.
I’m a detailer and usually charge $800+ for a ceramic package. I tested this Magic Shield Pro kit on my personal daily driver (Honda Civic). Honestly? It rivals the professional-grade stuff I buy in bulk. The flash time is predictable, and it wipes off clean without being sticky. The 24-month claim seems realistic given how hard it cured.
Bought this for my husband. He spent the whole Saturday in the garage applying it to his Jeep Wrangler. He said the included applicator block was really high quality. The Jeep looks fantastic, and he’s happy, so I’m happy.
I have a carbon fiber hood and spoiler on my BMW M3, and I wanted something specifically to protect them from UV yellowing. The description said it works on carbon fiber, so I gave it a shot. It went on smooth and made the weave pop beautifully. No hazing at all.
The results are amazing, my Toyota RAV4 looks better than new. The hydrophobic effect is crazy. I’m giving 4 stars only because the bottle is quite small (50ml). It was enough to do my SUV with two coats, but just barely. If you have a huge truck, maybe buy two kits. Performance-wise, it’s a 5.
Incredible shine. Worth every penny for the kit.
I was a bit intimidated to try a “real” ceramic coating that comes in a small bottle, but this kit made it surprisingly easy. It comes with everything you need—the sponge, the cloths, even gloves. I followed the instructions, applying it in small sections on my black Tesla Model 3. The gloss is significantly deeper than any spray wax I’ve used. It looks like the car is wet.
I put this on my 2022 Ford F-150. I use the truck for work, so it takes a beating. The 10H hardness claim caught my eye. It’s been on for about 2 months now, and I’ve noticed way fewer light scratches from bushes and wash mitts. The mud literally falls off when I hose it down. Solid protection.
The 10-second bag test
After washing and drying, place your hand inside a clean plastic bag and lightly glide it over the paint. The bag amplifies tiny bumps, revealing bonded contamination a normal wash leaves behind.


Match the grade to the job
The safest approach is the least aggressive grade that removes the contamination. Test a small, inconspicuous area first, especially on soft or dark paint.

Controlled claying
Clay should glide, not grab. Work in the shade on cool, freshly washed paint and keep the panel generously wet with a compatible clay lubricant.
Choose your configuration
Both options include light, medium and heavy clay grades. Choose the complete kit when you also need dedicated lubrication and a microfiber towel.
Build a better foundation
Claying is the mechanical step. For best results, remove loose dirt and chemical contamination first, then finish with the protection of your choice.
Remove loose dirt and road film.
Dissolve embedded ferrous particles.
Lift remaining bonded contamination.
Polish if needed, then clean the surface.
Apply wax, sealant or coating.
What washing leaves behind
A normal wash handles loose soil. Clay targets the bonded residue that remains attached to the surface, helping restore a cleaner, smoother foundation.


Protect the finish while you work
The clay traps the contamination it removes. Inspect it often, fold the dirty face inward and keep unused clay sealed so every pass starts as clean as possible.
Safety first
Choose the complete kit if you need both clay and a dedicated lubricant. Choose the Triple Clay Bar Pack when you already have a compatible clay lubricant.
Yes, poor technique or an aggressive grade can leave light marring. Start with the lightest grade that works, use generous lubrication, test first and apply only light pressure.
Clay when clean paint still feels rough or before polishing and protection. It is a decontamination step, not something required at every wash.
Inspect the paint under good light. Polish if needed, wipe the surface clean, then apply your chosen wax, sealant or ceramic/graphene protection.
Choose your kit above, then add it to the cart.
Graphene Shampoo combines high-lubricity foam with a pH-neutral formula designed for routine washing. It lifts road film while helping coated, waxed, and clear-coated surfaces retain gloss and hydrophobic behaviour.

Three practical benefits for weekly maintenance and pre-coating preparation.

A balanced formula cleans without aggressively stripping waxes, sealants, or ceramic protection.

Graphene and SiO₂ help the surface feel slicker and look freshly detailed after rinsing and drying.

Dense foam, easy rinsing, and a clean finish reduce the need for extra gloss products after every wash.

Use on a cool surface out of direct sunlight. Never allow shampoo to dry on the vehicle.

On properly maintained paint, the wash removes traffic film and residue that mute reflections. The result is a cleaner, slicker surface with more visible colour depth.
The pH-neutral formula is designed for coating-safe maintenance. Follow the dilution and washing directions on the label.
Yes. It works in a foam cannon or a traditional wash bucket. Adjust the dilution to your equipment and the level of soil.
No. It is a maintenance shampoo that supports gloss and hydrophobic performance; it does not replace a bonded ceramic coating.
Yes. It can be used on clear-coated paint, waxes, sealants, glass, wheels, and exterior trim.
Use a dedicated tar remover or iron remover for heavy bonded contamination, then wash the vehicle normally.
Select your quantity above and check out securely with free U.S. shipping.
Washing removes dirt. Prep Spray targets the invisible layer left behind—polishing oils, wax residue, fingerprints, and surface film that can interfere with ceramic or graphene coating adhesion.

A simple, controlled wipe-down creates the clean foundation your coating needs.



Clears lubricants and fillers left after paint correction so the true finish is exposed.
Removes lingering protection that can prevent a new coating from meeting the paint evenly.
Lifts light handling residue and oily film before the coating applicator touches the panel.

Work in the shade on a cool, dry surface. Use clean towels and change sides often.
Each step has a different job. Prep Spray is the final cleaning stage immediately before protection.
Dissolve embedded metallic fallout and brake-dust contamination.
Shop Iron Remover →Lift bonded surface contamination that washing and chemistry leave behind.
Shop Clay Bar Kit →Remove oils, wax residue, and final surface film before coating.
Choose a bonded ceramic coating or an easy-to-use graphene spray coating.
Shop Graphene Coating →Follow the product label. Work with ventilation, keep the bottle away from heat and flame, and test an inconspicuous area when you are unsure about a surface.
No. Wash and decontaminate the vehicle first. Prep Spray is the final wipe that removes remaining oils, wax residue, and light surface film before protection.
Use it after paint correction or decontamination and immediately before applying a ceramic coating, graphene coating, sealant, or wax.
It is designed for exterior paint, glass, chrome, and wheels. Always work on a cool surface and test first when the material or finish is unfamiliar.
No. Work one small section at a time and wipe before the product dries. This gives you better control and helps prevent streaking.
No. Use it in the shade on cool, dry panels and follow all instructions and safety warnings on the label.
Select your quantity above and check out securely with free U.S. shipping.
Normal washing removes loose dirt, but bonded contamination can remain attached to paint and glass. A properly lubricated clay bar lifts that embedded grit so the surface feels smoother before polishing, sealing, or coating.

Good clay work is controlled and gentle—never dry, rushed, or forced.



Lift embedded grit and airborne contamination that settles into the surface over time.
Remove small bonded particles and stubborn surface film after the vehicle has been washed.
Address rough spots that remain after chemical decontamination and contact washing.

Work in the shade on cool, freshly washed paint. Keep the surface generously lubricated.
Always test an inconspicuous area first. Softer paint may require polishing after any mechanical decontamination.
For well-maintained finishes, soft paint, and light bonded contamination.
For routine decontamination when a light grade does not fully smooth the panel.
For stubborn contamination. Test carefully and expect that follow-up polishing may be appropriate.
Chemical and mechanical decontamination do different jobs. Use only the steps your vehicle needs.
Dissolve metallic fallout before using mechanical clay treatment.
Shop Iron Remover →Lift the bonded contamination still attached to paint or glass.
Remove oils and residue before applying your chosen protection.
Shop Prep Spray →Apply wax, sealant, or a bonded graphene ceramic coating.
Shop Graphene Coating →Clay must glide over the surface on a film of compatible lubricant. Stop if it drags, keep the working face clean, and discard any clay that falls onto the ground.
Add Graphene Shampoo and this Clay Bar Kit to the cart together. The qualifying bundle saving is calculated automatically—no coupon code needed.
After washing, place your hand inside a clean plastic bag and gently feel the paint. A gritty or rough texture indicates bonded contamination may still be present.
Incorrect use can cause marring. Always work on a washed, cool panel with generous lubricant, light pressure, and a clean clay face. Test first, especially on soft or dark paint.
Only when bonded contamination is present. Many vehicles need it seasonally or before polishing and coating, but usage depends on storage, climate, and driving conditions.
Clay can be used on suitable exterior glass and coated wheel surfaces with proper lubrication. Use separate clay for dirtier areas such as wheels and test unfamiliar finishes first.
Inspect the finish. If protection will be applied, use Prep Spray for the final surface wipe, then apply the chosen wax, sealant, or coating.
Choose the complete kit or triple clay pack above.
Keep your selected Clay Bar option and add the products that handle loose dirt and metallic fallout. Your saving is applied automatically in the cart.
Customers notice the difference before they even step back to admire the shine: bonded grit is gone and the surface feels ready for polishing or protection.
“This is the most satisfying step in detailing. Seeing the white clay turn brown lets you know it’s working. My car shines so much brighter now because the surface is truly clean.”
“I have a black BMW 5 Series, so I’m terrified of scratches. I used the Yellow bar with GlideTech spray. Zero marring—it lifted the dirt and left the paint perfect.”
“The spray nozzle was a little hard to twist open, but once it started working, it misted fine. The clay bars are excellent—very pliable once you knead them a bit.”
I was quoted $1,200 by a local shop to ceramic coat my new Tesla Model Y. I decided to try this kit instead. It took me about 4 hours to do the prep (wash, iron remover, clay) and apply the coating. The result is indistinguishable from a pro job. The gloss is deep and the surface is slick as ice. Saved me a fortune.
This isn’t a simple spray wax, so be prepared to put in a little work, but it’s worth it. I applied it to my 2019 Ford Ranger. You wipe it on with the sponge, wait for it to “flash” (look kind of rainbow-y), and then buff it off. Once it cures, the hardness is real. Branches that used to scratch my paint now just slide over it.
I was worried about streaks, specifically on a black car. But the instructions were clear. Apply to the sponge, spread in a cross-hatch pattern, wait a minute, and buff. As long as you have good lighting, it’s foolproof. No high spots left on my Nissan Altima.
My 2015 Toyota Camry looks brand new. This stuff brought the shine back to life.
Comparison time: I used a spray ceramic last year. It lasted maybe 3 months. This liquid coating takes longer to apply (you have to wipe it on and buff it off), but the difference is night and day. This feels like a permanent layer. I’m 6 months in and it’s still performing like day one.